Greek wine reaches back through thousands of years of cultivation, cultural exchange, disruption, and revival. This tasting explores several of Greece’s distinctive native grapes and the landscapes that shape them—from the elevated vineyards of Macedonia to the limestone soils of Kefalonia and the high plateaus of the Peloponnese.
Greek Wine History. Wine has been produced in Greece for more than 4,000 years. During Ottoman rule, from 1453 to 1821, taxation and other restrictions disrupted Greek viticulture. Monasteries, including those at Mount Athos and Meteora, helped preserve longstanding wine traditions. Vineyards nevertheless continued to be cultivated in places such as Siatista, Naoussa, Tyrnavos, Rapsani, Nemea, Crete, and the Aegean and Ionian islands (New Wines of Greece, n.d.).
Greek Wine Varieties. Greek wines are best known for native varieties such as Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, and Xinomavro. More than 300 other native varieties are cultivated, alongside European grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Greece also produces traditional retsina, a white wine—often made from Savatiano, Roditis, or Assyrtiko—to which pine resin is added during production.
White Grapes
Assyrtiko
- Best known from Santorini in the Aegean Islands, although it is now grown across Greece.
- In northern Greece, it may be blended with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, or Malagousia to produce fuller white wines with smoky and melon-like qualities.
- Pairs especially well with fish and seafood (Puckette, 2017).
Athiri
- Grown in central Greece and on several Aegean islands (Puckette, 2017).
Begleri
- A native Greek variety grown in central Greece and on the island of Ikaria (Puckette, 2017).
Chardonnay
- A western European variety also grown in Greece.
Malagousia
- A native Greek variety that nearly disappeared before being revived in the 1970s.
- Rediscovered in west-central Greece and now cultivated in many Greek wine regions.
- Known for an expressive floral and fruit character, often suggesting rose, pear, peach, citrus, and fresh herbs.
- Its aromatic richness is sometimes compared with Viognier, while its body can resemble Chardonnay.
- Pairs well with shellfish, lightly sauced pasta, yellow cheeses, salads, and chicken (Greece Is, 2015; Puckette, 2017).
Malvasia, or Monemvasia
- Associated particularly with the Aegean Islands (Puckette, 2017).
Moschofilero
- A native Greek variety primarily grown in the Peloponnese.
- A late-ripening, pink-skinned grape generally used to produce white wine.
- Known for floral, citrus, and spicy aromas, frequently including rose petals.
- Also known as Fileri Tripoleos (Wikipedia contributors, 2018a).
Muscat Blanc
- Grown notably on Samos in the Aegean Islands (Puckette, 2017).
Robola
- Primarily grown on Kefalonia in the Ionian Islands, often in limestone-rich soils.
- Some vineyards contain old, ungrafted vines.
- Known for high acidity and aromas of lemon, peach, and lime, sometimes accompanied by herbal and mineral notes.
- Pairs well with baked fish, chilled seafood, anchovies, olives, bread, and creamy white sauces (I Love Greek Wine, n.d.; Princeton Corkscrew Wine Shop, n.d.; Wikipedia contributors, 2018b).
Roditis
- Grown in both northern and southern Greece (Puckette, 2017).
Savatiano
- Grown primarily in central Greece, particularly Attica (Puckette, 2017).
Vidiano
- Grown primarily on Crete (Puckette, 2017).
Red Grapes
Agiorgitiko
- Sometimes called the “Blood of Hercules.”
- Best known from Nemea in the Peloponnese, although it is also grown elsewhere in Greece (Puckette, 2017).
Bekari
- A rare indigenous grape traditionally used to deepen the color of blends.
- Associated with Epirus in northwestern Greece.
Cabernet Sauvignon
- A western European variety grown in several Greek regions, including central and northern Greece (Puckette, 2017).
Liatiko
- Primarily associated with Crete (Puckette, 2017).
Limnio
- Grown in Macedonia and on the Aegean island of Limnos.
- Mentioned in writings attributed to Aristotle.
- Often displays red-fruit, herbal, and earthy qualities (Puckette, 2017).
Limniona
- Grown in parts of central Greece (Puckette, 2017).
Kotsifali
- Grown primarily on Crete (Puckette, 2017).
Krasato
- Grown in parts of central and northern Greece, including Rapsani (Puckette, 2017).
Mandilaria
- Grown on the Aegean Islands, including Paros, and on Crete (Puckette, 2017).
Mavrodaphne
- Grown on Kefalonia and in the Peloponnese (Puckette, 2017).
Mavrotragano
- Grown primarily on the Aegean Islands (Puckette, 2017).
Merlot
- Grown in several parts of mainland Greece (Puckette, 2017).
Stavroto
- Grown in central Greece, particularly around Rapsani (Puckette, 2017).
Syrah
- Grown in central, northern, and southern Greece (Puckette, 2017).
Vlahiko
- Named for the Vlachs, a traditionally pastoral people of southeastern Europe.
- Produces rustic, high-acid wines with earthy qualities and relatively modest alcohol.
- Associated with the region around Ioannina in Epirus, near the Albanian border.
- Grows at elevations above 600 meters on sloping limestone terrain.
- At the time of the source article, Domaine Glinavos had access to only about one hectare of Vlahiko vines (Gargantuan Wine, 2015).
Vradiano
- Grown in parts of central Greece.
- Often displays ripe strawberry, black pepper, and floral notes (Puckette, 2017).
Xinomavro
- Grown primarily in Macedonia in northern Greece, especially around Naoussa and Amyndeon. It is also grown in parts of central Greece.
- Sometimes called the “Barolo of Greece” because of its high acidity, pronounced tannins, and capacity to age.
- Often displays red and dark fruit, anise or licorice, warm spice, dried herbs, and occasionally a savory tomato quality (Puckette, 2017; Wine-Searcher, n.d.-b).
Greek Wine Regions
Northern Greece. Northern Greece includes Macedonia, Epirus, and Thrace. Its cooler, more continental climate supports structured red wines and aromatic whites. Xinomavro is especially important, although Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Roditis, and several international varieties are also cultivated (Puckette, 2017).
Naoussa. Naoussa is an appellation within Macedonia known for structured, age-worthy Xinomavro. Its vineyards commonly contain limestone-rich clay soils.
Amyndeon. Amyndeon is a high-elevation wine-producing area in northwestern Macedonia. Its cooler climate supports Xinomavro wines with pronounced acidity, red-fruit character, and substantial aging potential.
Peloponnese. The Peloponnese is one of Greece’s best-known wine-producing regions and is particularly associated with Moschofilero and Agiorgitiko. The peninsula generally has a Mediterranean climate, although elevation creates distinctly cooler growing areas within it (Puckette, 2017).
Mantineia. Mantineia, in the central-eastern Peloponnese, is a high-elevation appellation especially known for aromatic Moschofilero.
Nemea. Nemea, in the northeastern Peloponnese, is best known for red wines made from Agiorgitiko.
Aegean Islands. The Aegean Islands are known for dry Assyrtiko from Santorini and aromatic Muscat from islands such as Samos and Limnos. Their wines are shaped by strong sun, wind, low rainfall, and maritime influences (Puckette, 2017).
Samos. Samos is particularly known for aromatic wines made from Muscat Blanc, ranging from dry to richly sweet styles.
Santorini. Santorini is celebrated for dry, high-acid Assyrtiko grown in volcanic soils under extremely dry and windy conditions.
The Wines
Domaine Zafeirakis Malagousia 2016
- Region. Tyrnavos, Thessaly; Paleomylos.
- Site and production. Produced from organically cultivated vines growing in flinty soils.
- Aromas. Fresh green and mineral qualities accompanied by peach, honey, and spice (Domaine Zafeirakis, n.d.; Rock Juice Inc., n.d.; Wine-Searcher, n.d.-a).
Domaine Skouras Moschofilero 2017
- Region. Mantineia, eastern Peloponnese; PGI Arcadia.
- Alcohol. 12%.
- Vines. Approximately 33 years old and grown at high elevation in sandy soil.
- Winemaking. Fermented in stainless steel following approximately four hours of skin contact, with brief aging on fine lees.
- Aromas. White flowers, honeysuckle, citrus, and lime.
- Body. Medium to full (Domaine Skouras, n.d.; Wine.com, n.d.).
Alpha Estate Hedgehog Vineyard Xinomavro 2015
- Region. Amyndeon, northwestern Macedonia.
- Classification. PDO Amyndeon.
- Site. Grown at approximately 690 meters with northern exposure.
- Winemaking. The grapes underwent a cold soak and skin contact before fermentation. The wine remained on its lees for eight months with regular stirring, followed by 12 months in French oak and additional bottle aging.
- Aromas. Red and dark berries accompanied by leather, vanilla, pepper, and clove.
- Pairings. Barbecued meat, spicy sausage, baked red peppers, and rabbit (Alpha Estate, n.d.).
References
Alpha Estate. (n.d.). Alpha Estate Xinomavro single vineyard “Hedgehog”—PDO Amyndeon. https://alpha-estate.com/product/xinomavro-sv/
Domaine Skouras. (n.d.). Moschofilero. https://www.skouras.gr/us/wines-2/whites/moscofilero/
Domaine Zafeirakis. (n.d.). Domaine Zafeirakis. http://domainezafeirakis.gr/
Gargantuan Wine. (2015). A thrilling, endangered grape from the stunning mountains of northern Greece. http://gargantuanwine.com/2015/10/vlahiko/
Greece Is. (2015, October 16). Malagousia: The Cinderella of Greek grapes. http://www.greece-is.com/malagousia/
I Love Greek Wine. (n.d.). Robola. https://www.ilovegreekwine.com/greek-wine/native-grape-varieties/robola/
New Wines of Greece. (n.d.). Ottoman rule. http://www.newwinesofgreece.com/stin_tourkokratia/en_ottoman_rule.html
Princeton Corkscrew Wine Shop. (n.d.). Orealios Gaea—R 2018. https://www.princetoncorkscrew.com/wines/Orealios-Gaea-R-2018-w9993579s4
Puckette, M. (2017, August 22). The wine regions of Greece. Wine Folly. https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/the-wine-regions-of-greece-map/
Rock Juice Inc. (n.d.). 2016 Domaine Zafeirakis Malagousia. https://rockjuiceinc.com/products/2016-domaine-zafeirakis-malagousia
Wikipedia contributors. (2018a, December 4). Moschofilero. In Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Moschofilero&oldid=871950128
Wikipedia contributors. (2018b, December 4). Robola. In Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Robola&oldid=871950976
Wikipedia contributors. (2018c, December 4). Malagousia. In Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Malagousia&oldid=871948693
Wine.com. (n.d.). Skouras Moschofilero 2017. https://www.wine.com/product/skouras-moscofilero-2017/420568
Wine-Searcher. (n.d.-a). 2016 Domaine Zafeirakis Malagousia, Paleomylos. https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/dom+zafeirakis+malagouzia+paliomylos+thessaly+greece/2016
Wine-Searcher. (n.d.-b). Xinomavro wine information. https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-582-xynomavro