Notes on Burgundian Wine

This was originally written in December 2019. Some edits were made in 2026.

Burgundy’s wines are shaped by a long winemaking history and a complex geology of limestone, marl, and clay. Although Pinot Noir and Chardonnay dominate, the region also produces wines from Aligoté, Gamay, and several less common varieties.

Burgundian Wine History. Much of Burgundy was covered by a shallow sea or lagoon millions of years ago, contributing to the limestone and marl that now underlie many of its vineyards. The region’s winemaking tradition stretches back to the Roman era. During the Middle Ages, Catholic monks developed and carefully documented vineyard sites, while the Dukes of Burgundy promoted and protected the reputation of Burgundian wine (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-a, n.d.-b).

As of 2024, Burgundy had approximately 32,300 hectares—or nearly 80,000 acres—under vine and about 3,500 wine-producing estates (Bourgogne Wine Board, 2024).

Varieties

Primary

Pinot Noir (red)
Chardonnay (white)

Together, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir account for more than 90% of Burgundy’s vineyard area. Chardonnay represents approximately 57% of plantings and Pinot Noir approximately 34% (Bourgogne Wine Board, 2024).

Secondary

Gamay (red)
Aligoté (white)
Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris (white), permitted in limited appellations and blends
Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris (white), grown primarily in the Saint-Bris appellation

Aligoté accounts for approximately 6% of Burgundy’s vineyards. Gamay, Sauvignon, and other varieties collectively represent the remaining 3% (Bourgogne Wine Board, 2024, n.d.-c).

Major Regions

Chablis

Known for dry, high-acid Chardonnay, often made with little or no obvious oak influence, although some Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines are partially aged in oak.
Bisected by the Serein River.
Underlain largely by Kimmeridgian clay-limestone and marl containing fossilized marine organisms.
All Chablis wines are made from Chardonnay.
Common notes include citrus, green or yellow apple, white flowers, chalk, and other mineral qualities (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-d, n.d.-e).

Côte d’Or. The Côte d’Or is Burgundy’s most renowned stretch of vineyards and is divided into the Côte de Nuits in the north and the Côte de Beaune in the south.

Côte de Nuits

Known primarily for Pinot Noir.
Extends roughly from the southern edge of Dijon to Corgoloin.
Contains most of Burgundy’s red Grand Cru appellations.
Many of its best-known vineyards occupy east- or southeast-facing slopes overlooking the Saône River valley.
Celebrated appellations include Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, and Vosne-Romanée. Individual Grand Crus include Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, and Romanée-Conti.
Production is overwhelmingly red, although some Chardonnay and small amounts of rosé are produced, particularly around Marsannay.
Common notes include blackcurrant, cherry, red berries, mushroom, underbrush, and spice (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-f).

Côte de Beaune

Especially known for rich, complex Chardonnay, although it also produces important Pinot Noir.
Many vineyards have east- or southeast-facing exposures.
Grand Cru appellations include Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Charlemagne, Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet.
Village and Premier Cru appellations to explore include Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin, Volnay, Pommard, and Beaune.
Whites: White flowers, dried grass, fresh apple, pear, citrus, and hazelnut.
Reds: Plum, cherry, tobacco, and earthy notes (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-g).

Côte Chalonnaise

Known for relatively good-value Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as Crémant de Bourgogne.
Located south of the Côte de Beaune, between Chagny and the Couchois.
Includes the Village appellations Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Limestone, marl, clay, and pebbly soils vary across the region.
Whites: Tree fruit, citrus, white flowers, and restrained oak.
Reds: Dried strawberry, cherry, earth, woodland, and finely textured tannins (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-h).

Bouzeron

The only Burgundy Village appellation devoted exclusively to Aligoté.
Often shows citrus, apple, white flowers, honey, hazelnut, and mineral notes.
Pairs well with fish and shellfish (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-i).

Rully

Produces both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Has been an important center of Crémant de Bourgogne production since the early nineteenth century.
Also produces Village and Premier Cru still wines (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-j).

Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny

Mercurey and Givry are particularly associated with Pinot Noir.
Montagny produces white wines from Chardonnay.
All three include Premier Cru vineyard sites.

Mâconnais

Known particularly for good-value Chardonnay.
Extends through southern Burgundy toward Saint-Véran and the border with Beaujolais.
Has a warmer climate and stronger Mediterranean influence than northern Burgundy, and harvest generally begins earlier than in Chablis.
Soils are varied but commonly include Jurassic limestone, marl, clay, sandstone, and siliceous material.
Important Village appellations include Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Saint-Véran, and Viré-Clessé (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-k).

Pouilly-Fuissé

One of the best-known appellations of the Mâconnais.
Vineyards grow primarily on Jurassic clay-limestone soils, with scree and limited areas of schist.
Common notes include soft apple, pineapple, citrus, and white peach (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-l).

Viré-Clessé

Recognized in 1998 and launched with the 1999 vintage.
Produces Chardonnay ranging from fresh, dry styles to richer wines.
Common notes include ripe stone fruit, honeysuckle, citrus peel, and wild herbs (Bourgogne Wine Board, n.d.-m).

Classifications. Burgundy follows a geographical hierarchy based on increasingly specific places of origin. The current Bourgogne Wine Board figures combine Village and Premier Cru production rather than reporting Premier Cru as a separate percentage (Bourgogne Wine Board, 2024).

Approximately 1% Grand Cru AOCs
- Produced from exceptional, individually named vineyard sites.
- Often the region’s most complex and expensive wines.
Approximately 46% Village AOCs, including Premier Cru Climats
- Village wines are named for the commune or village from which the grapes originate.
- Premier Cru wines come from a specifically designated Climat, or vineyard plot, within a Village appellation.
- A Premier Cru label usually includes both the village name and the name of the vineyard.
Approximately 53% Regional AOCs
- May be produced from grapes grown across a broader authorized area within Burgundy.
- Often fresher and intended for earlier drinking, although quality varies considerably by producer and site.

Chablis expresses this hierarchy through four principal labels: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru (Bourgogne Wine Board, 2024, n.d.-n).

Our Wines

Domaine Céline & Laurent Tripoz, Bourgogne Blanc “Les Chênes” 2015

Grape: 100% Chardonnay.
Farming: Biodynamic; the vineyard has been managed organically since 1970.
Site: Deep clay-limestone soil in Loché in southern Burgundy.
Vines: Approximately 70 years old at the time of the vintage.
Winemaking: Hand-harvested, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and vinified and aged in oak barrels for 11 months. The wine was lightly filtered before bottling.
Tasting notes: Orchard fruit, especially apples, with toast and wax.
Overall impression: A classic southern white Burgundy from Loché (Domaine Céline & Laurent Tripoz, 2015).

Éric de Suremain, Rully Premier Cru “Meix Caillet” Blanc 2017

Grape: 100% Chardonnay.
Farming: Certified organic, with biodynamic practices used at the estate since 1996.
Region: Côte Chalonnaise.
Site: Meix Caillet is an east-southeast-facing Premier Cru vineyard in Rully and a monopole of the estate.
Context: Rully can offer relative value compared with better-known white-wine appellations of the nearby Côte de Beaune.
Tasting notes: Hazelnut, sassafras, lime, and pineapple (Domaine Éric de Suremain, n.d.).

Domaine des Gandines, Bourgogne Rouge 2017

Grape: 100% Pinot Noir.
Farming: The estate had been certified organic since 2009 and later received biodynamic certification.
Region: Mâconnais.
Site: Limestone and clay-limestone soils in Burgundy’s warmer, more southerly wine region.
Tasting notes: Plum, pomegranate, roasted chestnut, and autumn woods (Domaine des Gandines, n.d.).

Éric de Suremain, Rully Premier Cru “Préaux” Rouge 2014

Grape: 100% Pinot Noir.
Farming: Certified organic and cultivated using biodynamic practices.
Region: Côte Chalonnaise.
Site: A southeast-facing Premier Cru vineyard in Rully planted on soils suited to Pinot Noir.
Context: The Côte Chalonnaise is known for Pinot Noir that can provide good value relative to more famous appellations farther north.
Tasting notes: Dark cherry, fresh soil, and flowers (Domaine Éric de Suremain, n.d.).

References

Bourgogne Wine Board. (2024, September). Bourgogne wines: Key figures. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/our-resources/gallery_files/site/72878/72882.pdf

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-a). Back to the origins of Bourgogne wines. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/wine-and-terroir/our-natural-assets/geology/the-birth-of-bourgogne-wines/the-birth-of-bourgogne-wines-thousands-of-years-of-history,2479,9399.html

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-b). Wines produced by the monks and promoted by the Dukes of Bourgogne. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/winegrowers-and-expertise/a-story-of-time/the-contribution-of-the-monks-and-dukes-of-bourgogne/from-5th-to-15th-c.-wines-made-by-monks-and-trumpeted-by-the-dukes-of-bourgogne-across-europe,2517,9387.html

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-c). Pinot Noir and Chardonnay: The Bourgogne region’s two noble grape varietals. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/wine-and-terroir/our-grape-varietals-our-colors/pinot-noir-and-chardonnay-the-bourgogne-region-s-two-noble-grape-varietals,2475,9265.html

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-d). Chablis, the Grand Auxerrois and the Châtillonnais: On the edges of the Paris Basin. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/wine-and-terroir/our-natural-assets/geology/the-heritage-of-the-paris-basin/chablis-the-grand-auxerrois-and-the-cha-tillonnais-on-the-edges-of-the-paris-basin,2480,9402.html

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-e). Chablis and Grand Auxerrois. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/wine-and-terroir/our-vineyards/chablis-and-the-grand-auxerrois/chablis-and-grand-auxerrois-the-green-gold-of-the-bourgogne-region,2469,9312.html

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-f). Côte de Nuits and Hautes Côtes de Nuits. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/wine-and-terroir/our-vineyards/cote-de-nuits-and-hautes-cotes-de-nuits/cote-de-nuits-and-hautes-cotes-de-nuits-purple-and-gold,2470,9313.html

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-g). Côte de Beaune and Hautes Côtes de Beaune. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/wine-and-terroir/our-vineyards/cote-de-beaune-and-hautes-cotes-de-beaune/cote-de-beaune-and-the-hautes-cotes-de-beaune-a-winegrowing-region-renowned-for-its-legendary-wines,2471,9314.html

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-h). The Côte Chalonnaise and the Couchois. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/wine-and-terroir/our-vineyards/the-cote-chalonnaise-and-couchois/the-cote-chalonnaise-and-the-couchois-historical-winegrowing-terroir,2472,9316.html

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-i). Aligoté: A 100% Bourgogne varietal. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/wine-and-terroir/our-grape-varietals-our-colors/aligote/aligote-a-100-bourgogne-varietal,2799,10609.html

Bourgogne Wine Board. (n.d.-j). Rully. https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/wine-and-terroir/bourgogne-and-its-appellations/rully,2458,9253.html